Versace’s latest collection obeyed and caressed the female figure, made up of flowing shapes that followed the curves of the woman it dressed. Donnatella’s cuts, and many a cut-out, were bending and asymmetric templates placed to accentuate and boast about the body, in a bold and zero-fuss palette of black, white, red and blue.
The show began with aesthetically simple looks that focused entirely on silhouette, not an embellishment to be seen. Block colour power suits and jumpsuits alike were finished with billowing flared legs, which balanced the female form and secured her purposeful, strutting feet to the ground. Halter necks cupped busts and wide, buckled belts emphasised waists. The solid colours and outlines made a strong and statuesque woman; astral queens.
It was only until quite a way into the collection that Versace introduced beading, adding some glimmering movement, but this quickly went from subtle to spilling like gowns of glistening oil. The beads began to morph themselves into the structures of the clothes and engulfed them whole, sewn in lines and grids, showing off flesh like a mesh of second-skin. As well as floor-length pieces baring all, there were mini dresses paired with knee-high boots, making this collection the epitome of hot, haute sex appeal.
By the final quarter of the show, Donnatella was giving us pieces with a potent dose of both her focuses combined: the geometric cut-out, the cascading shape of the female form, in equal parts to glossy, figure-hugging blankets of twinkling beads. Versace has created goddess-worthy gowns for Spring 2015. The paradox is that, whilst following the natural contours of the body, this couture collection has gone to a rather celestial, space-age place.
Images from style.com.
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